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Nigerian Cooking at Home and in the Diaspora [A Cookbook]
October 1, 2023
In her first cookbook, New York Times Cooking contributor, chef, and recipe creator Komolafe shares her food memories and the culinary traditions of her childhood home of Lagos, Nigeria. She begins by walking readers through the core ingredients of Nigerian cooking and why they are essential for success. Next, she highlights basic techniques like fermentation and dry-roasting that transform core ingredients into the flavormakers that cooks will revisit in recipes throughout the book. Recipes cover street food as well as large meals and are a good introduction to Lagos's cuisine and distinctive philosophy around cooking and eating. Readers will enjoy reading about customs like buka, local ingredients, and the tips and tricks Komolafe uses to re-create recipes and memories when she is far from home. The page design is playful and features illustrations by Diana Ejaita, who is also from the Nigerian diaspora. For some readers, this will be a nostalgic journey through food, while for others this will be an exploration of culture; it will be tasty and satisfying for everyone. VERDICT This cookbook is a must for libraries that support a Nigerian community and for those with cooks and readers who enjoy exploring global cuisine and a chef's personal journey.--Sarah Tansley
Copyright 2023 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.
Starred review from October 16, 2023
Komolafe, founder of the Four Salt Spoons recipe development lab, who moved to the United States as a student in the 1990s, brings her home city of Lagos vividly to life in this gorgeous debut blend of recipes and recollections. A moving introduction about the importance of food to the author touches on her brother’s death from sickle cell anemia and her time as an undocumented immigrant in America. A no-nonsense overview introduces key ingredients that may be unfamiliar to Western readers, such as dried crayfish and manshanu (clarified milk fat), then segues into an exploration of the funky, bold cuisine of Nigeria. Recipes include street food staples such as yam fritters and favorites from bukas (small casual restaurants) like one-pot chicken and rice and the “viscous” ogbono soup, which has an unusually elastic texture. A bone-in goat leg braised in a spicy sauce is among the more time-consuming dishes for weekends and holidays. While desserts are not heavily featured on the Nigerian table, Komolafe offers pithy recipes for sweets such as chuk chuk coconut candies and kanjika, a pudding made with fermented cornstarch. A chapter on refreshing drinks rounds things out. This heartfelt and fascinating collection is an outstanding example of a cookbook that is so much more than mere recipes.
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